A quick guide to Huelgoat and the Monts d'Aree

Mike
A quick guide to Huelgoat and the Monts d'Aree

Places to go

About the village of Huelgoat and the towns in the surrounding area.
Huelgoat is a picturesque village located in the heart of the Mont's d'Arree and the Armoric Forest. It's been a tourist destination since the 18th Century because of the incredible scenery - featuring the lake and the Moulins du Chaos - as well as the monoliths that crop up in unexpected places. It's our local village and it's a short walk (20 mins) from the gites - but a longer walk back because it's uphill. If you choose to drive be aware that it's sometimes difficult to find a spot in the square - but there is lots of overflow parking along the lakeside. Huelgoat has lots of good shops - part of the reason we chose to move here. Where many French villages are deserted during the day, Huelgoat is usually bustling. There are art and craft shops, as well as a range of services including boulangerie, hardware and a tabac. In the square there are two restaurants, three creperies, a pub and an estaminet. The Carrefour express has a good range of fresh local produce, including live seafood most of the year. Thursday is market day, and the square is full of stalls between 0900 and 1200 - a typical regional market, stalls feature fresh produce, herbs and spices, books and clothing as well as other things from time to time. If you want to eat out anywhere during the peak season, you will need to make a booking ahead of time, or you will be disappointed.
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Huelgoat
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Huelgoat is a picturesque village located in the heart of the Mont's d'Arree and the Armoric Forest. It's been a tourist destination since the 18th Century because of the incredible scenery - featuring the lake and the Moulins du Chaos - as well as the monoliths that crop up in unexpected places. It's our local village and it's a short walk (20 mins) from the gites - but a longer walk back because it's uphill. If you choose to drive be aware that it's sometimes difficult to find a spot in the square - but there is lots of overflow parking along the lakeside. Huelgoat has lots of good shops - part of the reason we chose to move here. Where many French villages are deserted during the day, Huelgoat is usually bustling. There are art and craft shops, as well as a range of services including boulangerie, hardware and a tabac. In the square there are two restaurants, three creperies, a pub and an estaminet. The Carrefour express has a good range of fresh local produce, including live seafood most of the year. Thursday is market day, and the square is full of stalls between 0900 and 1200 - a typical regional market, stalls feature fresh produce, herbs and spices, books and clothing as well as other things from time to time. If you want to eat out anywhere during the peak season, you will need to make a booking ahead of time, or you will be disappointed.
Carhaix is our nearest big town. It has lots of supermarkets, as well as a selection of boutiques and high street shopping on the historic main street. Carhaix has a long history with the tour de France, and there are several art installations related to cycling as a result. It's also home to Vorgium - the Roman provincial capital and there is a museum associated with the archaeological site that is worth a look.
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Carhaix-Plouguer
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Carhaix is our nearest big town. It has lots of supermarkets, as well as a selection of boutiques and high street shopping on the historic main street. Carhaix has a long history with the tour de France, and there are several art installations related to cycling as a result. It's also home to Vorgium - the Roman provincial capital and there is a museum associated with the archaeological site that is worth a look.
We visited Morlaix fifty times before we went into the old town itself. We were missing out. The town is a jumble of mediaeval and Victorian Gothic architecture nestled deep in a valley and crowned with a massive Napoleonic railway viaduct - which is used by the TGV. There is excellent shopping to be found in the town, especially on Saturday (market day) although parking is often a squeeze on those days, especially in the summer. There are also some very good restaurants in the town - too many to make a recommendation as yet, but watch this space. Check also for the street art and murals display - these are renewed every year and some of them are absolutely fabulous. Don't take my word for it - go and see for yourself.
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Morlaix
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We visited Morlaix fifty times before we went into the old town itself. We were missing out. The town is a jumble of mediaeval and Victorian Gothic architecture nestled deep in a valley and crowned with a massive Napoleonic railway viaduct - which is used by the TGV. There is excellent shopping to be found in the town, especially on Saturday (market day) although parking is often a squeeze on those days, especially in the summer. There are also some very good restaurants in the town - too many to make a recommendation as yet, but watch this space. Check also for the street art and murals display - these are renewed every year and some of them are absolutely fabulous. Don't take my word for it - go and see for yourself.
Quimper is our nearest 'big city', and is about 40 minutes drive to the centre of town. We visit regularly to go to the prefecture, but have only just stared exploring the old town with the lifting of COVID-19 restrictions and the reopening. It's worth visiting on the weekends - you can usually see a wedding outside the cathedral, and the old town is lively with crowds of locals and sightseers intermingled. Quimper has excellent patisseries and an undercover market that offers a range of ingredients and food options all week long during the day. Best to get there early to maximise your options.
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Quimper
37-11 Rue des Réguaires
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Quimper is our nearest 'big city', and is about 40 minutes drive to the centre of town. We visit regularly to go to the prefecture, but have only just stared exploring the old town with the lifting of COVID-19 restrictions and the reopening. It's worth visiting on the weekends - you can usually see a wedding outside the cathedral, and the old town is lively with crowds of locals and sightseers intermingled. Quimper has excellent patisseries and an undercover market that offers a range of ingredients and food options all week long during the day. Best to get there early to maximise your options.
Brest is a big city, about an hour's drive away. It has lots of shops, a major hospital, an airport and a main line railway station. Accordingly, we try and avoid it as much as possible. During the last war, most of the city was demolished by the Allied air forces as they tried to squash the Nazi submarine pens located here. The rebuilding has not been sympathetic, and obviously the mediaeval street plan was retained because driving is unpleasant. If you need to visit, park on the outskirts and take the tram in, or better yet, drive to Morlaix and catch a train from there. Inside the city a free shuttle bus is available.
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Brest
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Brest is a big city, about an hour's drive away. It has lots of shops, a major hospital, an airport and a main line railway station. Accordingly, we try and avoid it as much as possible. During the last war, most of the city was demolished by the Allied air forces as they tried to squash the Nazi submarine pens located here. The rebuilding has not been sympathetic, and obviously the mediaeval street plan was retained because driving is unpleasant. If you need to visit, park on the outskirts and take the tram in, or better yet, drive to Morlaix and catch a train from there. Inside the city a free shuttle bus is available.
This shop has some amazing photography of the Monts d’Arree and the village of Huelgoat especially. It’s not at all expensive and well worth a visit when you go to Quimper.
Les Têtes de l'Art
13 Rue Élie Freron
This shop has some amazing photography of the Monts d’Arree and the village of Huelgoat especially. It’s not at all expensive and well worth a visit when you go to Quimper.

Food scene

This is probably our favourite place to eat in Carhaix. The menu changes regularly but features great burgers, awesome Pizzas and Breton French classics. The staff are friendly and helpful and speak some English.
Atypik Bistro
2 Rue Charles le Goff
This is probably our favourite place to eat in Carhaix. The menu changes regularly but features great burgers, awesome Pizzas and Breton French classics. The staff are friendly and helpful and speak some English.
OK - this is an oddball. The hotel restaurant features the cuisine of South America - but more than Mexican food. Dishes from Peru and other places adorn the menu as well as some safer French classics. As for your food to come spicy and the chefs will not disappoint. The larger dining room means you can sometimes get in here when other places are full.
Hôtel Restaurant de Bretagne
13 Pl. Aristide Briand
OK - this is an oddball. The hotel restaurant features the cuisine of South America - but more than Mexican food. Dishes from Peru and other places adorn the menu as well as some safer French classics. As for your food to come spicy and the chefs will not disappoint. The larger dining room means you can sometimes get in here when other places are full.
As veterans of south east asian cuisine, we can recommend this place for 'pan asian' food, but mostly Lao, Vietnamese and Thai. It's really authentic food, and the chef is very talented. Don't forget to order the Nems (spring rolls) and eat them wrapped in a lettuce leaf with the sprig of mint provided. The calamari is very good, as is the red duck curry. You can ask for it to be served spicy if that's your taste.
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Tuk-Tuk
17 Rue Sainte-Catherine
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As veterans of south east asian cuisine, we can recommend this place for 'pan asian' food, but mostly Lao, Vietnamese and Thai. It's really authentic food, and the chef is very talented. Don't forget to order the Nems (spring rolls) and eat them wrapped in a lettuce leaf with the sprig of mint provided. The calamari is very good, as is the red duck curry. You can ask for it to be served spicy if that's your taste.
This is a jam factory - but the factory shop is much more than that. Apart from their own produce, they offer a wide range of local delicacies including beer, wine and cider. The shop is a short (10 min) walk from the gites and is well worth a visit.
LES 4 SAISONS
Zone d'activité du Vieux Tronc
This is a jam factory - but the factory shop is much more than that. Apart from their own produce, they offer a wide range of local delicacies including beer, wine and cider. The shop is a short (10 min) walk from the gites and is well worth a visit.

Sightseeing

The Huelgoat Forest is part of the Armoric National Park. The outstanding feature of the local area is a massive array of standing stones and rock formations, all of which are accessible by walking trails. It's a great place for geocaching, nature walking or walking your dog in all seasons. If you leave without visiting, you haven't seen the area properly.
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Huelgoat-metsä
892 Rue de la Roche Tremblante
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The Huelgoat Forest is part of the Armoric National Park. The outstanding feature of the local area is a massive array of standing stones and rock formations, all of which are accessible by walking trails. It's a great place for geocaching, nature walking or walking your dog in all seasons. If you leave without visiting, you haven't seen the area properly.
About fifteen minutes away by car, the Cul du Tredudon offers unmatched views of the whole area from one of the highest points around.
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Monts d'Arrée
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About fifteen minutes away by car, the Cul du Tredudon offers unmatched views of the whole area from one of the highest points around.
When I'm stressed. I like to go and walk by the lake, then watch the waters tumble into the Moulin. The lake changes from day to day but never fails to lift my mood. From Rue Gen. De Gaulle you get a good view of the country side of the lake, but if you invest the time in a short walk, you can get a really good view of the village, with it's reflection in the water. Walk round to the Parc du Roche Vert and see what I mean. There are two bars on the lakeside that operate all summer and into the autumn, as well as the Hotel Du Lac which does a reliable pizza.
Lac de Huelgoat
20 Rue du Général de Gaulle
When I'm stressed. I like to go and walk by the lake, then watch the waters tumble into the Moulin. The lake changes from day to day but never fails to lift my mood. From Rue Gen. De Gaulle you get a good view of the country side of the lake, but if you invest the time in a short walk, you can get a really good view of the village, with it's reflection in the water. Walk round to the Parc du Roche Vert and see what I mean. There are two bars on the lakeside that operate all summer and into the autumn, as well as the Hotel Du Lac which does a reliable pizza.
This is a great place to visit and admire the monoliths as well as the view out over the lake back toward Huelgoat.
Parc de la Roche Verte
This is a great place to visit and admire the monoliths as well as the view out over the lake back toward Huelgoat.

Museums

This is a good museum for people who don't know very much about the art and culture of Brittany. It has a good overview of the history of Brittany, as told through artefacts and art work collected since antiquity and Roman times. The museum is located adjacent to the cathedral, in a former opulent mansion. It's probably worth a visit just to look at the building... For us, the highlight was the Alfonse Mucha Exhibit - although this is temporary. You need to pay to enter the museum. It was EUR7 for an adult at the time of writing.
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Breton County Museum
1 Rue du Roi Gradlon
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This is a good museum for people who don't know very much about the art and culture of Brittany. It has a good overview of the history of Brittany, as told through artefacts and art work collected since antiquity and Roman times. The museum is located adjacent to the cathedral, in a former opulent mansion. It's probably worth a visit just to look at the building... For us, the highlight was the Alfonse Mucha Exhibit - although this is temporary. You need to pay to enter the museum. It was EUR7 for an adult at the time of writing.
This is the Brest wing of the national naval museum, and it focuses on the historic naval port that it overlooks. Honestly, the best parts of this museum are the building itself - which is a mediaeval fort updated by Vauban in the 17th Century - and the part of the exhibition that focuses on the development of the port. There is some nice art. The upper half of the museum looks at the modern navy, but is largely recruiting PR. From the ramparts you can get some good views of the port, but be careful where you take photos because this is still an active military base and some areas are off limits.
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Brestin merimuseo
Boulevard de la Marine
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This is the Brest wing of the national naval museum, and it focuses on the historic naval port that it overlooks. Honestly, the best parts of this museum are the building itself - which is a mediaeval fort updated by Vauban in the 17th Century - and the part of the exhibition that focuses on the development of the port. There is some nice art. The upper half of the museum looks at the modern navy, but is largely recruiting PR. From the ramparts you can get some good views of the port, but be careful where you take photos because this is still an active military base and some areas are off limits.

Kaupunkia koskevat ohjeet

Liikkuminen

Bretagne is rural. Public transport is scarce.

Driving, cycling and walking are the best ways to get around. Taxis are very expensive - a 15 min Taxi ride can cost from EUR 100.
Varaa ennen kuin lähdet

Restaurants are usually busy

Booking ahead is much more likely to get you a seat at the table - especially in the summer months. In the winter more places close, so booking is usually a good idea to avoid disappointment.
Mitä kannattaa pakata mukaan

Dress for the weather

Brittany can be wet. Even in summer. Bring a raincoat and keep it handy.
Mitä kannattaa pakata mukaan

Bring your walking shoes

Many of the local sights involve a walk into the forest. Comfortable walking shoes are important to avoid blisters and embarrassment - waterproof shoes or wellington boots are advisable in the winter.
Tavat ja kulttuuri

Breton Nationalism

There is a strong undercurrent of Breton nationalism, which you can see in the graffiti around. It is always wise to respect local culture, and there is much in the Breton tradition to admire.
Tätä ei kannata jättää väliin

Galettes

Breton Galettes are a form of buckwheat pancake - used in the same ways as crepes but with a unique and distinctive flavour.