Guidebook for Paris

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Guidebook for Paris

Everything Else

Bakery - closest place for proper bread, away from the tourist quarter
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Panifica
15 Av. Trudaine
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Bakery - closest place for proper bread, away from the tourist quarter

Drinks & Nightlife

Neither touristy nor pretentious. I will often have coffee here in the morning if I am in the Abbesses area.
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La Fourmi
74 Rue des Martyrs
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Neither touristy nor pretentious. I will often have coffee here in the morning if I am in the Abbesses area.
A bit smug and trendy but the glass court is a nice place to sit and there is a foosball table in the restrooms downstairs
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Hôtel Amour
8 Rue de Navarin
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A bit smug and trendy but the glass court is a nice place to sit and there is a foosball table in the restrooms downstairs
Old haunt. Was a pleasant place for a drink. I'm told it's a bit overrun by hipsters these days (I was not a hipster)
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Le Progrès
1 Rue de Bretagne
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Old haunt. Was a pleasant place for a drink. I'm told it's a bit overrun by hipsters these days (I was not a hipster)
Rated a top-10 tapas bar in Paris by TimeOut (Jan 2013) . Not been to 9 others so I can't say, but went a Wednesday evening in April 2015 and enjoyed a jazz band and a mixed crowd. Not cheap but OK €
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La Guêpe
14 Rue des Trois Frères
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Rated a top-10 tapas bar in Paris by TimeOut (Jan 2013) . Not been to 9 others so I can't say, but went a Wednesday evening in April 2015 and enjoyed a jazz band and a mixed crowd. Not cheap but OK €
This wine shop has a little secret bar at the end worth having a glass and a plate of cheese in. They will also bring you a tray of oysters from the Mascotte (across the street)
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La Cave des Abbesses
43 Rue des Abbesses
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This wine shop has a little secret bar at the end worth having a glass and a plate of cheese in. They will also bring you a tray of oysters from the Mascotte (across the street)
This is just a truly remarkable place. Hidden away like a speakeasy under layers of posters and paint is this chic (interior) cocktail bar that serves uniquely French-made alcohol. Visited 6/2015
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Le Syndicat
51 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis
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This is just a truly remarkable place. Hidden away like a speakeasy under layers of posters and paint is this chic (interior) cocktail bar that serves uniquely French-made alcohol. Visited 6/2015
Not in our neighborhood but this pedestrian street is worth a visit in the "Brooklyn" of Paris 10th arr. Several bars here and around it that you should check out. My office used to be 2 blocks away
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Cour des Petites Écuries
Cour des Petites Écuries
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Not in our neighborhood but this pedestrian street is worth a visit in the "Brooklyn" of Paris 10th arr. Several bars here and around it that you should check out. My office used to be 2 blocks away
This recent hotel and bar is both chic and appealing—but expensive. More interesting the the Hotel Amour
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Folies Pigalle
9 Rue Frochot
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This recent hotel and bar is both chic and appealing—but expensive. More interesting the the Hotel Amour

Essentials

Largest grocery market in the neighborhood, open until 23h. Good selection of products. Closed Sundays
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Market
61-65 Blvd Marguerite de Rochechouart
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Largest grocery market in the neighborhood, open until 23h. Good selection of products. Closed Sundays
Poste office. Not as nice as the branch at the Place des Abbesses but often less crowded. Note that post offices are banks in France so you can get cash here
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La Poste
8 Rue François Bonvin
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Poste office. Not as nice as the branch at the Place des Abbesses but often less crowded. Note that post offices are banks in France so you can get cash here
With the local A2 Pas (Auchan superette) around the corner in liquidation (May 2017), this newly opened mini-market easily fills its shoes (although I am sad to see my familiar market friends disappear)
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Franprix
108 Av. Jean Lolive
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With the local A2 Pas (Auchan superette) around the corner in liquidation (May 2017), this newly opened mini-market easily fills its shoes (although I am sad to see my familiar market friends disappear)
This used to be an A2Pas (Auchan superette) market that was in financial distress and I'm glad to see it reopen. Super convenient and close.
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Supermarché G20
34 Rue de Cîteaux
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This used to be an A2Pas (Auchan superette) market that was in financial distress and I'm glad to see it reopen. Super convenient and close.

Food Scene

Friendly staff. Chic, interesting food
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Braisenville
36 Rue Condorcet
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Friendly staff. Chic, interesting food
Probably the best restaurant in the Abbesses sector. One of the few that isn't catering to tourists but to locals
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Café Miroir
94 Rue des Martyrs
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Probably the best restaurant in the Abbesses sector. One of the few that isn't catering to tourists but to locals
Shellfish platters!
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La Mascotte
52 Rue des Abbesses
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Shellfish platters!
One of the ten best pizza restaurants in Paris! Not cheap but worth it. Open only at meal times. Take out hot sandwiches good too.
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Da Carmine
61 Rue des Martyrs
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One of the ten best pizza restaurants in Paris! Not cheap but worth it. Open only at meal times. Take out hot sandwiches good too.
Good, large (but not dietetic) salads, plus service all day. They also own the Marmite down on the boulevard (similar menu) and another Relais Gascon down the street on Joseph Le Maistre
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Le relais Gascon
6 Rue des Abbesses
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Good, large (but not dietetic) salads, plus service all day. They also own the Marmite down on the boulevard (similar menu) and another Relais Gascon down the street on Joseph Le Maistre
Bakery/Pastries and voted best baguette in Paris in 2007
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Maison Arnaud Delmontel
39 Rue des Martyrs
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Bakery/Pastries and voted best baguette in Paris in 2007
Bakery. Voted best baguette in Paris in 2010 and AGAIN for 2015. No fluke. Now of course, there's a line out the door
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Le Grenier à Pain
38 Rue des Abbesses
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Bakery. Voted best baguette in Paris in 2010 and AGAIN for 2015. No fluke. Now of course, there's a line out the door
Japanese food, quite decent and popular with locals. Closed Mondays
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New Naoko
3 Rue des Abbesses
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Japanese food, quite decent and popular with locals. Closed Mondays
Your neighbor! Decent Indian food even if the prices have gone up a bit and the service can be spotty.
Au Palais de l'Himalaya
2 Rue Briquet
Your neighbor! Decent Indian food even if the prices have gone up a bit and the service can be spotty.
Not cheap for the neighborhood, but a nice place to sit away from the tourists and the noisy boulevard. One of four Corso brasseries in Paris, produced in association with the Costes brothers group
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Corso
10 Av. Trudaine
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Not cheap for the neighborhood, but a nice place to sit away from the tourists and the noisy boulevard. One of four Corso brasseries in Paris, produced in association with the Costes brothers group
Good Moroccan food. Used to be on the rue des Martyrs (well, many years ago now I guess). We also just like Trudaine
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Restaurant L'Oriental Paris
47 Av. Trudaine
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Good Moroccan food. Used to be on the rue des Martyrs (well, many years ago now I guess). We also just like Trudaine
I don't really recommend this but it's an Australian joint (formerly the Kookaburra Café) and they speak English. Expensive, overrated, smug. But also a recent fixture in the neighborhood
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KB CaféShop
53 Av. Trudaine
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I don't really recommend this but it's an Australian joint (formerly the Kookaburra Café) and they speak English. Expensive, overrated, smug. But also a recent fixture in the neighborhood
Nice to eat here when it's warm out. Simple menu, wasn't too expensive when I was here until 2010
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L'Eté en Pente Douce
8 Rue Paul Albert
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Nice to eat here when it's warm out. Simple menu, wasn't too expensive when I was here until 2010
worth a gander. expensive, however
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Sébastien Gaudard - Pâtisserie des Martyrs
3 Rue des Martyrs
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worth a gander. expensive, however
Currently featured in a number of guidebooks but there's more in this area than just Jeanette. Beware of pickpockets on this street however
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Chez Jeannette
47 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis
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Currently featured in a number of guidebooks but there's more in this area than just Jeanette. Beware of pickpockets on this street however
The decor is classic 1930s French but the food is classic North African couscous and tajine. A great place for a meal
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Le Martel
3 Rue Martel
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The decor is classic 1930s French but the food is classic North African couscous and tajine. A great place for a meal
Winner of the Best Baguette de Paris in 2012 (they were in a different spot at the time), this is a very chic bakery with tables for coffee (rare!) as well. Took them a while to be listed here on Air BnB, as I meant to put them in the guide for a couple years now
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Pain Pain
59 Rue des Martyrs
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Winner of the Best Baguette de Paris in 2012 (they were in a different spot at the time), this is a very chic bakery with tables for coffee (rare!) as well. Took them a while to be listed here on Air BnB, as I meant to put them in the guide for a couple years now
TimeOut Paris recently wrote a review of the US-style chicken counter: https://www.timeout.fr/paris/restaurants/cot-cot
Cot Cot
21 Rue Gérando
TimeOut Paris recently wrote a review of the US-style chicken counter: https://www.timeout.fr/paris/restaurants/cot-cot
The owner/manager is really a friendly guy, so I come in for pizza often enough when I'm in town
La Favorita
7 Rue Mauconseil
The owner/manager is really a friendly guy, so I come in for pizza often enough when I'm in town
This was once an uninteresting two-star hotel but when the owner died, his 5 children spent more then 2 years of construction to turn it into what it is, which is simply great (and four stars for the hotel now). Reopened in its current configuration in March 2018 with a celebrity chef. Pricey, but definitely a good place to feel like an adult.
Hôtel Môm'Art
42 Rue d'Orsel
This was once an uninteresting two-star hotel but when the owner died, his 5 children spent more then 2 years of construction to turn it into what it is, which is simply great (and four stars for the hotel now). Reopened in its current configuration in March 2018 with a celebrity chef. Pricey, but definitely a good place to feel like an adult.
This hotel reopened in 2018 after a major renovation. The rooftop restaurant is now the main attraction for locals. Not prohibitively expensive, either (but it could easily have been). We ate here last summer (2018) and the view of the Eiffel Tower down the boulevard is spectacular in the evening.
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Terrass Hotel
12-14 Rue Joseph de Maistre
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This hotel reopened in 2018 after a major renovation. The rooftop restaurant is now the main attraction for locals. Not prohibitively expensive, either (but it could easily have been). We ate here last summer (2018) and the view of the Eiffel Tower down the boulevard is spectacular in the evening.
Great sidewalk spot for people watching.The price for a charcuterie and cheese board is unbeatable (but the beer will set you back). I came here to watch the World Cup soccer matches from the tables on the sidewalk last year (2018).
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Le Claque-Fromage
49 Av. Trudaine
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Great sidewalk spot for people watching.The price for a charcuterie and cheese board is unbeatable (but the beer will set you back). I came here to watch the World Cup soccer matches from the tables on the sidewalk last year (2018).

Sightseeing

Everything here, the chic side of lower Montmartre. Post office, banks, cafés. The center of the neighborhood for the film "Amélie"
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Rue des Abbesses
Rue des Abbesses
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Everything here, the chic side of lower Montmartre. Post office, banks, cafés. The center of the neighborhood for the film "Amélie"
This is the café where the film "Amélie" (1999) was filmed
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Café des Deux Moulins
15 Rue Lepic
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This is the café where the film "Amélie" (1999) was filmed

Arts & Culture

Our tiny local cinéma! Films in English (or original language at least with French subtitles). Auditorium designed by Cocteau. Tea room open all day
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Studio 28
10 Rue Tholozé
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Our tiny local cinéma! Films in English (or original language at least with French subtitles). Auditorium designed by Cocteau. Tea room open all day
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Théâtre de l'Atelier
1 Pl. Charles Dullin
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Shopping

You can get ink cartridges for the printer here (and anything else electronic or household)
DARTY Montmartre
56 Blvd Marguerite de Rochechouart
You can get ink cartridges for the printer here (and anything else electronic or household)
Don't forget to wander down here on lower Martrys, it's a nice walk
Place Lino Ventura
Place Lino Ventura
Don't forget to wander down here on lower Martrys, it's a nice walk
Cool second-hand clothes & stuff
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Chinemachine
100 Rue des Martyrs
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Cool second-hand clothes & stuff